Sunday, September 25, 2011

Charming NS

     That night in Port Howe the fog rolled in "thick as pea soup," as the saying goes. Suddenly all around us was white and we couldn’t even see Raftan anchored a few hundred feet away. With no lights showing through the fog it truly felt like we were lost in the wild somewhere. It was the first time any of us can remember when there wasn’t any light visible at night on this or any other sailing trip. 

     The fog receded by morning and we set out along the coast of Nova Scotia. By afternoon we had to refuel so we travelled up the Liscombe River, a very narrow, windy hurricane hole with water the colour of black tea. The area was beautiful and serene and struck us as cottage country because it seemed so remote. It was rainy as we entered so foul weather gear was a necessity as we secured the boat to a tiny dock below a rustic resort. Meanwhile the marina attendant (Chester) pulled up in a pontoon boat shouting, “I’ll be over in a few minutes to get your fuel.” The two people with him were super excited about seeing a sailboat and wanted to check the boat out at the same time that we were trying to get Raftan safely into the dock. Very friendly people, although their timing was a bit off! The dock was tiny and broke as we pulled Raftan’s stern line in, bending outwards. Mom, with her unflappable motherly instincts, tried to shove me out of harm’s way thinking it was going to break right off. We had to let the lines go so the dock didn’t break completely and the decision was made to raft the boat alongside Child’s Play. While refuelling Mom and Dad chatted with Chester about huge mosquitoes, the ups and downs of the marina business, and the lack of snow in Nova Scotia this time of the year (which mom pointed out jokingly). To this Chester replied, “Yur in Nova Scotia gurl! It doesn’t snow here til December!”


     Fuelled up, we continued along the coast for a night passage to Halifax. It was an eerie night to say the least as we passed through patches of fog and kept an eye on the radar and AIS for ships. Thank goodness for radar! A trip like this would be impossible and very risky without it. All the times we’ve used radar in the past became good practise, for this was the first time it was essential. As the morning approached I was at the helm following closely behind Raftan as we dodged between fishing boats in the fog. To warn you off they all shine a big floodlight on you, which can be kind of disconcerting because it’s hard to tell exactly how far away they are!
This tiny bird was so relaxed on deck that it fell asleep!
     This morning saw us safe but exhausted in Halifax where we pulled into a wharf along the pristine downtown waterfront. We passed two huge cruise ships, including the massive and recently-launched Queen Elizabeth. Seeing this boat reminded Dad that his parents (John and Freda) first came to Canada by way of Halifax Harbour from England in 1963. It’s pretty cool when you think about how many people have immigrated to Canada through this harbour; even more intriguing to think that my grandparents’ first glimpse of this country occurred in the very same place we are now.
The Queen Elizabeth
     Today was so warm and sunny it was such a treat after the rainy, cool, foggy weather we’ve encountered lately. Just to be able to go for a long walk in the city was wonderful! Being cooped up on a boat for days on end can make a person pretty cramped and sore. Don’t get me wrong, it’s amazing to be able to travel to all these places on a floating home that goes with you everywhere, but it can be pretty uncomfortable at times. It’s funny how living on a boat can really make you appreciate certain comforts that are taken for granted on land. For instance, taking a shower becomes a massive chore and you always have to be aware of how much water is used. Everything takes a little longer on a boat, that’s for sure! Conservation and minimalism is the key.  But from where I’m standing I’d say that it’s worth the sacrifice of a few on-land comforts for the chance to visit so many new places. Plus it makes you really REALLY appreciate a good hot shower after a long tiresome journey.
Halifax
     Our time in Halifax is brief as we’ll be leaving tomorrow afternoon for Lockeport, but we have all agreed that it’s a beautiful city well worth another visit. I mean, how can you go wrong with a city that has a pub on pretty much every corner? Thanks again for reading, I'll be adding pictures to previous posts so check them out again for some visuals :)
Nicole.

2 comments:

  1. The picture of The Queen Elizabeth looks fake for some reason. I'm sure it looks much bigger in person than the picture shows.

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  2. That's funny, I didn't notice that. It was launched in 2010 so its pretty new and shiny...almost too new looking I guess.

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