Wednesday, April 18, 2012

On George Town etc.

The passage overnight to George Town in the Bahamas was okay. After arriving, our thoughts always quickly turn to the surroundings and the details of the passage fade into the background. We motored a long way in behind a long reef and Stocking Island to an anchorage across the bay from George Town, a small community that caters largely to cruisers. Days passed quickly in that anchorage, where we were surrounded by many other cruising boats, some of which had been there for months.

George Town is well known in the cruising world for being the last anchorage before the open ocean must be faced to travel into the Caribbean. Our guide mentioned that many people sailing in the Bahamas have ended up in George Town and decided to stay in this haven much longer than planned, often giving up entirely on traveling any further south.

After visiting the beach on the ocean side of Stocking Island I have to say that I certainly can't blame them. The entire well-protected shore of the island was dotted with anchored boats, and three small coves shelter boats on mooring balls, including many that look like they've become permanent fixtures in the area. For long-term cruisers the area offers many things: lots of eccentric fellow-cruisers for company, good provisioning and amenities in George Town, gorgeously clear shallow waters, and miles of amazing beach.

Every Wednesday the propane truck pulls in promptly at eleven. It only comes once a week and we were lucky enough to ask a jolly cruiser on the dock about where to get propane on Tuesday, or else we might have missed it completely (he also happily supplied the information that one can grab a beer to pass the time while waiting for the tank to be filled). Jamie and Dad went to meet the truck the next day and Jamie found it incredibly amusing to watch as a multitude of white haired male cruisers (who all looked alike with their sun-bleached, salt-stained, button-up shirts)started to line up their propane tanks. Every third guy smiled and asked where the front of the line was and would then jokingly put their propane tank at the front of the line and laugh at his own cleverness. It would seem that the boys took part in what is likely a weekly ritual for those long-term eccentrics who spend months kicking it back in the lazy waters around George Town. It's funny to say, but a lot of the full-time cruisers have started to look alike to me, and this little encounter perfectly portrays their laid back attitude.

The beach on the ocean-side of the island was by far the most beautiful beach I've ever seen. Pink-white sand stretches for several miles, backed by large sand dunes covered in tiny palm trees, mangroves and rustling grasses. It reminded us of the beaches in Cape Hatteras, but with the added benefit of incredibly soft sand and perfect, crystal clear turquoise water that we couldn't seem to get enough of. Every time I looked up at the layers of blue and green extending out from the golden beach I felt a renewed sense of awe at its beauty. I wish I could capture those colours and take them home with me.
Surrounded by such loveliness the days passed swiftly while we swam, sunned, walked, and tried to soak it all in. Dad and Jamie even got out kiteboarding in the surf when the wind picked up. They had a great time boosting off waves and riding the choppy surf over reef and sand alike.

This beach was strangely empty during the majority of our time there. The occasional person would pass us while taking a beach walk, or would come down for a swim and some sun, but compared to the large number of boats anchored in the area it was starkly empty. We found it baffling that people wouldn't want to spend more time on such an amazing beach. The sheltered side of the island had a few small beaches that other cruisers appeared to frequent more often, including 'Volleyball Beach,' where people gathered to play volleyball and enjoy refreshments from the beach bar. Swimming ashore on our first day there we discovered that several large stingrays happily swim right up to your feet in the shallows off the beach. I suppose this beach offered more social opportunities, but for us it was far outclassed by the pristine beauty of the ocean-side beach.

Other than enjoying the beach and the friendliness of people in George Town, we spent a lot of time relaxing and trying to keep busy in our own ways (sometimes reading, sometimes watching movies from our movie collection, which is becoming quite sparse lately since we've pretty much watched everything already and have no way of refreshing it). We've all quickly realized that having a hobby like reading is essential to survive the cruising lifestyle, and everyone has started to read a lot more than they ever did before. Although we have all had an amazing time on this trip, most of us are definitely ready to be heading home. I find myself daydreaming about all the little luxuries and conveniences of home more and more over the last weeks. But we will soon be passing out of these amazing blue-green waters into the sadly less-exciting dark blue waters of the east coast, so for the next few weeks we will do our best to enjoy them as we explore the beautiful Bahamas.

Today we left George Town and did a day trip to a lovely spot behind another Stocking Island (this one is Lee Stocking Island). The water colour is just as nice here, although the tides create strange currents that leave us facing in random directions. Tomorrow we will continue to make our way along the outside of the Exumas to another spot further north called Rudder Cut Cay. I will try to keep up with posts as our journey northwards continues.

All the best,
Nicole.

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