Charming NS

     That night in Port Howe the fog rolled in "thick as pea soup," as the saying goes. Suddenly all around us was white and we couldn’t even see Raftan anchored a few hundred feet away. With no lights showing through the fog it truly felt like we were lost in the wild somewhere. It was the first time any of us can remember when there wasn’t any light visible at night on this or any other sailing trip. 

     The fog receded by morning and we set out along the coast of Nova Scotia. By afternoon we had to refuel so we travelled up the Liscombe River, a very narrow, windy hurricane hole with water the colour of black tea. The area was beautiful and serene and struck us as cottage country because it seemed so remote. It was rainy as we entered so foul weather gear was a necessity as we secured the boat to a tiny dock below a rustic resort. Meanwhile the marina attendant (Chester) pulled up in a pontoon boat shouting, “I’ll be over in a few minutes to get your fuel.” The two people with him were super excited about seeing a sailboat and wanted to check the boat out at the same time that we were trying to get Raftan safely into the dock. Very friendly people, although their timing was a bit off! The dock was tiny and broke as we pulled Raftan’s stern line in, bending outwards. Mom, with her unflappable motherly instincts, tried to shove me out of harm’s way thinking it was going to break right off. We had to let the lines go so the dock didn’t break completely and the decision was made to raft the boat alongside Child’s Play. While refuelling Mom and Dad chatted with Chester about huge mosquitoes, the ups and downs of the marina business, and the lack of snow in Nova Scotia this time of the year (which mom pointed out jokingly). To this Chester replied, “Yur in Nova Scotia gurl! It doesn’t snow here til December!”

     Fuelled up, we continued along the coast for a night passage to Halifax. It was an eerie night to say the least as we passed through patches of fog and kept an eye on the radar and AIS for ships. Thank goodness for radar! A trip like this would be impossible and very risky without it. All the times we’ve used radar in the past became good practise, for this was the first time it was essential. As the morning approached I was at the helm following closely behind Raftan as we dodged between fishing boats in the fog. To warn you off they all shine a big floodlight on you, which can be kind of disconcerting because it’s hard to tell exactly how far away they are!

This tiny bird was so relaxed on deck that it fell asleep!

     This morning saw us safe but exhausted in Halifax where we pulled into a wharf along the pristine downtown waterfront. We passed two huge cruise ships, including the massive and recently-launched Queen Elizabeth. Seeing this boat reminded Dad that his parents (John and Freda) first came to Canada by way of Halifax Harbour from England in 1963. It’s pretty cool when you think about how many people have immigrated to Canada through this harbour; even more intriguing to think that my grandparents’ first glimpse of this country occurred in the very same place we are now.

The Queen Elizabeth

     Today was so warm and sunny it was such a treat after the rainy, cool, foggy weather we’ve encountered lately. Just to be able to go for a long walk in the city was wonderful! Being cooped up on a boat for days on end can make a person pretty cramped and sore. Don’t get me wrong, it’s amazing to be able to travel to all these places on a floating home that goes with you everywhere, but it can be pretty uncomfortable at times. It’s funny how living on a boat can really make you appreciate certain comforts that are taken for granted on land. For instance, taking a shower becomes a massive chore and you always have to be aware of how much water is used. Everything takes a little longer on a boat, that’s for sure! Conservation and minimalism is the key.  But from where I’m standing I’d say that it’s worth the sacrifice of a few on-land comforts for the chance to visit so many new places. Plus it makes you really REALLY appreciate a good hot shower after a long tiresome journey.

Halifax

     Our time in Halifax is brief as we’ll be leaving tomorrow afternoon for Lockeport, but we have all agreed that it’s a beautiful city well worth another visit. I mean, how can you go wrong with a city that has a pub on pretty much every corner? Thanks again for reading, I'll be adding pictures to previous posts so check them out again for some visuals :)

Nicole.

The Sunrise Coast

Dates have become obsolete, except when listening to the weather forecast. This is fitting when it feels like you're in the middle of nowhere. Anchored in a bay tucked off the southern coast of Nova Scotia, the boat is surrounded by spiky evergreens crammed on a rocky shoreline. The only sign of civilization is a small blue shack on the opposite side of the bay.

Passing through the Strait of Canso we navigated a tiny channel alongside Andrew Island to the "sunrise coast" of Nova Scotia. The channel took us past a picturesque town that I can't do justice to by simply describing, so check out the pictures. Passing through that channel involved quick navigational decisions when the buoy positions didn't match our GPS. But we got through with our sanity intact and safely reached Port Howe for the night.

It strikes us as odd that a place called "Port Howe" lacks an actual port, but this just adds its untouched beauty. As we settle in for the night fog rolls in around us, creating a perfect atmosphere to spend the night on such a rough and rugged coastline. Now that I actually know what day of the week it is, here's hoping that everyone enjoys the weekend!
Nicole.
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A Foggy Passage

This evening just before dinner we pulled into a serene marina in Cap a L’Aigle. The trip from Quebec City was foggy the entire way, so we didn’t get to see much beyond the water around us and the hilly edges of the Charlevoix region. Rain misted around us throughout the day and despite trying to sail a few times we ended up motoring most of the way. The marina in Cap a L’Aigle is small and peaceful, with steep tree-covered hills extending off into the mist and a waterfall rushing down into the basin. The air here is cool and crisp, bringing with it scents of the winter to come. It reminds me of ski trips in the mountains. It seems ironic that to escape into warmer climes for the winter we have ended up heading further north as the summer recedes into fall.

It’s also interesting that so far we have yet to meet anyone else following the same route to the Caribbean. Likely others left earlier in the season. Shortly after departing Quebec City the water in the river changed from fresh to salt, so today officially counts as our first experience sailing in salt waters! Over the coming days we will enter the Maritimes and have another “first” when we experience sailing in the ocean for the first time in our lives! Tomorrow we continue along the St. Lawrence to Tadoussac. We’re hoping for a nice clear day with favourable winds so that we can actually see the landscape around us…although the fog does add some mystery to the day.

Wish us luck,

Nicole.

Bonus! Just as I was about to post this, the sun peeked out for the first time today and presented us with a gift: a rainbow. Such a nice end to a day of travel!