A drive around the magical island of Dominica

     Our trusty cruising guide to the Leeward Islands describes the vibrant greenness of Dominica so well that I feel compelled to share it with you: "Greenery erupts everywhere, thrusting upwards, curling, stretching, climbing, and falling, till the whole land is covered in a verdant tangle of trees, vines, shrubs and ferns. Add to this a plethora of birds, butterflies, and brightly-colored flowers, and you can begin to imagine its almost magical nature." 

     As Portsmouth yawned awake after a long night of loud music, Charlie picked us up in his long wooden boat and took us ashore to meet Alec, driver of the “Red October Taxi” (his favourite movie is “The Hunt for Red October,” which is funny because we have it in our boat movie collection) and our guide for the day. As we set out along an impossibly twisty road to the east every turn brought a new gorge or valley exploding with greenery.  Around each corner a banana plantation emerged with towering palm trees brushing the sky above.

     Stopping alongside one plantation Alec picked us some bananas and explained that each tree takes nine months to grow, gives only one bunch of bananas, and then sprouts little baby trees on all sides. Many bunches were protected by blue plastic bags to prevent spots and blemishes, and once fully grown they are exported to England and other Caribbean countries. Touching the trunks of the banana trees we realized how soft they are—filled with liquid and more like a soft stalk than a tree trunk. Alec also knocked some young coconuts from a tree to cut open later for coconut water and the soft jelly inside.

     Driving along the rainforest-covered eastern coast the vegetation was an endless blur of green. Along the way Alec pointed out a staggering variety of agricultural products: cocoa, coffee, breadfruit, passion fruit, cassava, ginger, almonds, grapefruit, pineapples, mangoes, and avocados. Every so often the canopy would part and we would catch beautiful glimpses of the unusually calm Atlantic Ocean. This fabulous island has completely redefined my concept of what agriculture looks like. Back home in Canada when I think of agriculture I picture large flat fields with long straight rows of corn. Here everything grows anywhere and everywhere, up and down steep valleys and deep within dramatic river gorges. People in the scattered villages live in homes without screens or windows and seem to spend the majority of their time outside in their natural surroundings.

     Inside the territory of a Carib reserve we stopped at a roadside shack open to the air where a man was baking traditional cassava bread. Made of grated coconut and cassava (a root vegetable eaten only by the Caribs here, but popular in the BVIs), it is baked on a large metal dish over a wood fire and shaped into a flat circular bread. The bread was piping hot and made for a delicious roadside snack. Further along at a lovely lookout point Carib ladies sold their handmade crafts and woven baskets from stands made of bamboo.

     After carving our way through endless fields and gorges and passing many villages and agricultural lands with colourful tumbledown homes and local people peering out at us curiously, we came to a beautiful Creole restaurant overlooking the ocean. Woven palm and sugarcane leaves decorated the walls and ceiling, tropical plants adorned vases carved from coconuts, and the benches were built of robust strands of bamboo. A delicious meal of chicken or fish came with a sampling of local vegetables, including breadfruit, dasheen, banana, plantain, cabbage and lemongrass. The freshly squeezed grapefruit juice was absolute perfection. So fresh and natural, it tasted like drinking straight from a grapefruit with a straw. The perfect amount of sugar formed an excellent balance between sweet and sour.

     Glimpses of the sea soon receded as we turned inland and climbed up and up to the World UNESCO Heritage Site called the Emerald Pool. Tucked inside a dense tropical forest, the Emerald pool sparkles green and translucent amidst mossy green boulders below a small waterfall. At the entrance we found a guide who was very enthusiastic about the island’s natural elements and had intensive knowledge of local plants and animals. Throughout the hike to the pool he pointed out spider plants, fly leaf vines, land crabs, elephant ears, leaves that lather to wash dishes, a fuzzy leaf that can be used as toilet paper in a pinch, and a local species of praying mantis. Beneath the dark cool shade of the trees we swam in the crisp fresh water of the Emerald Pool and enjoyed the refreshing spray from the waterfall.

     The road along the western coast back to Portsmouth was markedly drier, but still incredibly hilly. Back in Portsmouth Charlie showed up with a machete to cut open the coconuts for us and we stood along the warm beach enjoying fresh coconut water.

     Getting a tour around this verdant island was by far our best idea yet. Not only did we learn a lot about the island’s plants, agriculture, and economy, but we were able to sample local cuisine and drinks, all made fresh from produce grown right here on Dominica. It’s such a magical notion for us to be able to eat fruits and vegetables picked straight from the earth. Also, having a guide with intimate knowledge of the island and its natural features made our drive far more enriching than it would have been if we’d just rented a car on our own.  

     If anyone out there is looking for an amazingly welcoming, beautiful, lush tropical wonderland to explore, you should definitely visit Dominica. Although it is not the easiest place to get to (no international flights), I promise you, it is well worth the effort.

Nicole.

Alec fetching some coconuts

A bananaquit eating some banana

Banana plantation along the west coast

Cassava bread made in the Carib reserve

Swimming in the Emerald Pool