On Island Hopping

Lounging in Cane Garden Bay

     Time has slowed down. Since arriving in the BVIs we've lost track of time as the days pass by with ease and we island hop across stretches of water that seem almost ridiculously short after the long distances covered on our way down here. From Cane Garden Bay we jumped to Soper's Hole, a busy bay with a few trendy waterfront shops and a well-stocked grocery store. Here we visited the Sunny Caribbee Spice Shop, purchasing curry mix, mango chutney, papaya chutney and passion fruit hot sauce to use in recipes from our new Caribbean cookbook.

Soper's Hole

     A quick sail from Soper's Hole took us to a small anchorage at the entrance of the Bight on Norman Island, a beautiful spot with rocky hills framing deep green water with one of the best coral reefs we've visited. Here we were happily surprised to find Raftan, who we'd last seen in Cane Garden Bay just the day before. Since then we've stuck together in a companionable travel pattern that feels natural after so many months of sailing together. Sadly, however, we will soon have to say goodbye to our friends as they plan to spend Christmas in St. Martin and we'll be staying in the BVIs for the holidays.

Snorkeling at Norman Island

     While at this spot we had to be on constant hatch-closing alert for rain showers that seemed to start up every ten minutes or so and then stop after a brief five-minute downpour. Who says it never rains in paradise? Two days in this spot gave us lots of time to explore the reef and its plethora of colourful fishes and corals. Floating above the shimmering colours I felt I could spend hours just swimming and watching and marveling at the abundance of life below. On the other side of the Bight we snorkeled a popular spot with four caves, three of which you can swim right into. One had purple corals and sponges clinging to the rock and another was pitch black, requiring a flashlight to see the tiny squirrelfish hiding inside.

Diving at "The Indians"

     From Norman Island we spent a few hours at "the Indians," a rock formation with an amazing coral reef surrounding it. Sarah and Dad scuba dove with Patrice while Mom and I snorkeled above. Here we saw trumpetfish, french angelfish, and a green spotted sea turtle doing handstands while trying to snack in the swell. A short distance brought us to Little Harbour at Peter Island where we spent two nights. One night brought some excitement as Julie and Patrice rescued boaters who had run aground of the reef at the edge of the bay and were sinking in their dinghy.

Manchioneel Bay

     Tuesday we made a brief stop at Salt Island to snorkel above the RMS Rhone, a famous wreck dive. Sarah and I saw squid for the first time and watched eight of the small creatures floating together in a straight line. When we moved closer they shifted away in the swell but still held onto their funny formation. Next came Manchioneel Bay at Cooper Island with its sandy cacti-dotted cliffs and palm-fringed beach. This morning we went scuba diving at Cistern Point off Cooper Island. Sarah and I went first with Patrice and had our best fish sightings yet (Mom and Dad went later using tanks we've rented for a month). We saw porcupinefish, a stingray, a huge conch shell, loads of gorgonian corals, sand dollars, schools of purple-blue creole wrasse, giant barrel sponges, barracudas and several large tarpon. After refilling our tanks from the local dive shop we set off for the North Sound off Virgin Gorda. This afternoon we set anchor in a lovely section of water behind Prickly Pear Island. It seems like a well-sheltered spot to spend a few days. The weather tomorrow is supposed to be poor but we can't complain as the last few days have been sunny and beautiful.

     It's hard to believe that Christmas is approaching when every day brings 80 degrees and sun. I don't think it will quite feel like a proper Christmas without snow, but I can't say I mind too much! Now that we've spent almost two weeks here swimming and exploring constantly we can't wait to finally share it with the rest of the family over Christmas. We've had time to scope out some favourite spots for anchoring and snorkeling so it should be a pretty amazing Christmas for us all!

I hope everyone reading is happy and healthy and looking forward to the fast-approaching holidays!

All the best,
Nicole.